Over the years I spent hours
listening to and watching other experienced mushers. I began to visualize what they
described and incorporated what I could into my training runs. At one point I finally
realized that "running" a team and "training" a team are two different
things. Training a dog team is more than taking the dogs for a run. Training means having
a strategy and identifying specific objectives for each run.
"... I finally realized that 'running' a team
and 'training' a team are two different things."
Now, before each training run I ask myself one question: "what
do I want to accomplish." I try to identify the specific training objectives I want
to accomplish with each run. What does my team, or a specific dog need to learn, or if
necessary, unlearn. (It’s a lot easier to teach a dog a new trick than to try to
break a bad habit.)
Some common training objectives include: work ethic (keeping the
line tight), conditioning, increasing confidence, lead training, speed, dog team etiquette
(thou shall not bite thy neighbor), and passing.
Once I determine the training objective for each run, I plan so the
dogs have an opportunity to do what I want them to do. Here are a couple specific training
objectives and examples of things I do to help ensure my dogs have an opportunity to be
successful.
Work Ethic/Building Confidence:
-- I run the team at a speed that is comfortable for the dog.
-- If the dog is easily intimidated, I put him next to a calm dog
that won’t make him anxious.
-- If the dog is overly exuberant but not easily intimidated, I may
put him next to a more serious dog that will mind his own business but help keep him in
place. (Be careful if you are also dealing with a dog that lacks confidence.)
-- I may shorten the tug by wrapping it around the loop & back
to the tug. (This keeps the dog a little behind his neighbor.)
-- I don’t run the dog in lead.
-- I go slow down hills to help the tugs stay tight. Dogs lean into
the harness when they pull and this helps ensure the dog is not thrown off balance.
-- I watch the dog and the surroundings for any thing that may cause
the tug to go slack: Is the trail slippery, am I going to fast, is the dog getting tired,
is he tangled. I make changes as needed.
Lead Dog Training
-- I select a dog that has demonstrated good work ethic and
confidence.
-- I don’t put the dog in lead at the start of a run.
Instead, I will run the dog in point awhile with another experience dog (leader if
possible).
-- I use my best leader with the new leader.
-- The first few times I put the dog in lead, I wait until I’m
about 1/2 mile from home. Then I stop and move it up in lead.
-- I may shorten the tug by wrapping it around the loop & back
to the tug. (This puts the experienced dog a little ahead of the new leader.)
-- After a few runs and depending how the dog is doing, I begin to
move the dog in lead earlier in the run.
-- I rotate the dog in lead on different runs and avoid putting it
in lead two runs in a row.
--After the dog has demonstrated confidence and ability, I will run
it from home in lead with another experienced leader.
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